The gentle aromas of sweet Gardenia jasmine drifts and swirls, as a delicate piece of cloth is thrown on, the natural scent, once inhaled, soothes and relaxes the body and the mind.
This shawl made from hand-spun cotton dyed with stick lac and ebony seeds is designed for those who appreciate the healing powers of aromatherapy, a popular world trend. Home-spun cotton draws on local Lanna cultural roots is combined with the latest aroma-technology to create a scented product designed for safekeeping.
This special material was developed under a project which uses microencapsulation technique to infuse natural floral scents of local flowers into the material. As part of the Creative Lanna strategy of Chiang Mai University, where experts in relevant fields are drawn to serve society’s needs, this project aims to add value to local products.
Through cooperation between Chiang Mai University’s Faculty of Agriculture’s Science and Technology Research Institute and the university’s Faculties of Fine Arts, aroma oils are infused in materials, a technology which can be developed further in other products. The idea was started when it was suggested that cotton and naturally brown cotton, both long-standing local products, be developed into products with wider appeal.
The microencapsulation technique was therefore drawn upon to infuse this home-spun cotton, so that each piece of material will offer aromatic scents of local flowers.
Kasalong (Millingtonia hortensis L.f.): This flower has a scent which reminds people of winter in the North. It helps with respiratory issues and lessens anxiety.
Sonchampa (Magnolia champaca (L.) Baillon ex Pierre): This flower in the magnolia family has a deeply sweet scent which, when inhaled, relives headaches and reduces stress.
Frangipani (Plumeria obtusa L.): Found all across Northern Thailand, this beautiful flower, locally called Leelavadee, offers a muted and rounded scenes which helps to relax and sleep as well as reducing depression.
Gardenia jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides J.Ellis.): Commonly grown across he north, Lanna people believe that the gardenia is an auspicious flower, and is mostly used as offering to temples or other religious and traditional ceremonies. In the past Lanna women used to enjoy placing a flower behind their ear or pinned in their hair. The scent is gentle and helps to reduce stress and aid sleep.
Mamma Siamensis (Mammea siamensis T. Anders.): Found across Thailand, this flower is dry common and often added to water to give it scent during occasions such as Songkran. The scent helps with breathing clearly and opening up the nasal passage.
“Of course in the North we have a great amount of indigenous scented flowers from which to choose, such as kasalong or peep thong (Mayodendron igneum (Kurz) a beautiful coloured and aromatic flower” explained Assistant Professor Dr. Thaneeya Chetiyanukornkul, Deputy Director of the Science and Technology Research Institute, Chiang Mai University, who oversees this project. “There is also tree jasmine, but they are harder to find these days. We therefore chose Sonchampa, Frangipani and others as they are plentiful in the area.”
“We also had to research the actual scents themselves, drawing knowledge from old manuscripts which covered medicine and healing, in order to find the most therapeutic scent. The aim was to find scents that helped reinvigorate, rejuvenate and relieve stress through aromatherapy to add value to a product commonly used. For instance the older generation prefers the scent of Mamma Siamensis, while the younger generation doesn’t appreciate it as much and prefers the Frangipani.”
Assistant Professor Dr. Thaneeya Chetiyanukornkul, Deputy Director of the Science and Technology Research Institute, Chiang Mai University
The microencapsulation techniques helps to stabilise the aromatic oils, preventing them from evaporating, and allowing the scent to linger for a long time. Aromatic oils are notorious for destabilising when exposed to light, heat, air, damp, and even in room temperature, reducing the effectiveness of the aroma. According to pharmaceutical science, microencapsulation is one way to solve this problem and is currently used in industrial settings to infuse various materials such as fabric softening products, etc.
Once the technology is combined with the local hand-spun cotton, it can be developed into shawls, pillow cases, scarves, and such. The highlight is that the threads themselves, used to decorate the fabric, also undergo the microencapsulation process. It is recommended that the way to preserve the aromas for as long as possible is to keep them in air-sealed bags, to hand wash with soap or washing liquids, to hang dry in the shade and to avoid bleach. The scent should linger through five washes.
To enhance the already unique product the Fine Arts Department have designed patterns to be sewn into the fabric, each with its own connection to nature such as tree bark patterns or teak flower designs. The teak flower design is especially meaningful, being a symbol of Chiang Mai’s prosperity and wealth through the teak shade, as well as having been trademarked into the university’s branding.
Indigo-dyed hand-woven silk
Teak flower, a symbol of Chiang Mai University
Teak flower dyed cushion
Floral-scented perfume
Apart from the cushion, scarves and shawls, the project is also creating natural-scented aromas and setting a prototype for the passing on of this technology to various community enterprises who may be interested. The aim is to develop local Lanna wisdom for modern use, combining nature, craftsmanship and technology seamlessly onto a piece of material infused with the true scents of Lanna.